The red and white roses of Mr. Yves Saint Laurent

Christy 2022-04-14 08:01:01

The Mr. Yves Saint Laurent we knew was a fragile, uninhibited, shy, quiet, passionate genius. And what is a SAINT LAURENT Saint Laurent girl? According to Dominique Deroche, who has worked for Mr. Yves Saint Laurent for 40 years, in addition to what you wear, it is also about how you talk (never loudly), your every move... Speaking of which, the standard SAINT LAURENT Saint Laurent girl He slipped his hand into his pocket lightly.

Mr. Yves Saint Laurent is keen to design pockets for each piece, and he is especially obsessed with the action of women naturally bending their forearms to find the pockets and gently putting their hands in. From the earliest trousers to the last, this design does not miss even the haute couture dress. No matter which stage of SAINT LAURENT Saint Laurent, the hands in the pockets and the back of the hands are slightly exposed, which is the most Iconic Saint Laurent style.

Of course his own hands are beautiful. Capturing sensuality in motion, "that's the elegance of Mr. Yves Saint Laurent himself," says Dominique Deroche.

Since the 1960s, Mr. Yves Saint Laurent has established his own fashion house. We have reviewed in the past: for the lovers of "holy studies", they most praised the works of Mr. Yves Saint Laurent in the fifteen years between 1966 and 1981. Yes, that was also the day he worked hard and played hard with his two girlfriends, who made no secret of their love for nightclubs, alcohol and parties.

Left: Loulou de la Falaise; right: Betty Catroux. Black, white, red all in one, is there a more matching color than this?

Mr. Yves Saint Laurent had two women like that, one for his white roses and one for his red roses. The same period, alternately, embellished his hot destiny. Loulou de la Falaise, a white rose, is a new snowflake that flutters in the sky; Betty Catroux, a red rose, is a flame that burns a handful of roses and agarwood at the same time with a hint of choking.

Group photo of three people outside their ready-to-wear boutique, 1969

The white rose in the turban is Loulou de la Falaise, the accessories designer of Mr. Yves Saint Laurent. She entered the industry at the age of 16. She worked as a model for the US version of "Vogue" for a period of time, and did a period of cloth design for Halston, and then returned to the UK to be an editor. She met Mr. Yves Saint Laurent for work and decided to move to Paris.

To be precise, it was Mr. Yves Saint Laurent who first fell in love with her at first sight: Paris was vibrant in the early 1970s, but Loulou preferred to go to flea markets, loved rich and flamboyant colors, and was also full of accessories, a full bohemian girl.

Her good taste and natural conditions are a blessing in disguise - her mother was a model, and Elsa Schiaparelli herself was a Muse back then. When people think of Loulou, they always think of her natural and elegant side: she will find a piece of fabric, easily pull it into a turban on her head, and then find a brooch to fasten it.

And, she never copied the Runway look.

In addition to accessories, Loulou also takes into account the design of knitwear and holiday collections. She worked at SAINT LAURENT for more than 30 years, and even, according to biographer Christopher Petkanas, found that in the early 1990s, when Mr. Yves Saint Laurent's health was red, it was Loulou and the director of the couture workshop Anne-Marie Muñoz two People take over the whole world.

Even when she visits Mr. Yves Saint Laurent's North African home, she does not forget to discover new things at the stalls of the open-air market. The SAINT LAURENT jewelry of the 60s and 70s was created by Maison Denez and Loulou, who prefers stained glass and semi-finished gems. Her jewelry style also influenced the fashion creation of Mr. Yves Saint Laurent.

The Christopher Petkanas study also found that Loulou's work ethic was surprisingly high while on the job. She is an employee who can accompany the boss to spend the night in a nightclub, sleep in a hurry, and go to work as usual at 9 am the next day, and dress brilliantly every day. Loulou died of cancer in 2011. Her works during her tenure are now the hard currency of auction houses, especially the African and Chinese collections in the 1970s, whose earrings can be fired for thousands of dollars a pair on platforms like 1stdibs.

The red rose, Betty Catroux, is widely known as "Muse of Mr. Yves Saint Laurent". But she didn't like this title, and she clearly expressed her disgust with the word "Muse", "like a cheap label".

This may be because the word "Muse" has become so commercialized these days. In the past, the combination of her and Loulou really established the style of Saint Laurent. No wonder Mr. Yves Saint Laurent affectionately described her as his twin sister, and even the appearance of the two was the same. "Holy Science" researcher and author Leslie Camhi once likened her blond hair: "If there's nothing important, wait until the old lady gets her hair done."

Comparing her to a red rose, she actually wears all black (and a little bit of white). But she does have the warm and rebellious side of red roses in her bones, just like Mr. Yves Saint Laurent. In 1967, Betty Catroux, who was still a model at the time, attracted the attention of Mr. Yves Saint Laurent in a gay nightclub in Paris, and soon she was playing with Mr. Loulou de la Falaise and Mr. Yves Saint Laurent.

Contrary to the elegant white roses who grew up in England, Betty Catroux is rebellious and even likes to sit with her legs outstretched like a boy. Her preference for neat menswear, especially suits, coincides with Mr. Yves Saint Laurent's designs: SAINT LAURENT does not simply imitate men's workwear and uniforms, but also empowers women with narrow shoulders , thin sleeves and a corset to emphasize femininity.

These designs are inspired by men's wardrobes, especially business wear. Mr. Yves Saint Laurent hopes that women can wear them to any occasion, with any shoes, and even in suits, they don't need to wear bottoming, just wear Just one piece of underwear. At first, it used rigorous and neat tailoring to highlight femininity, so that women have a slender figure like a teenager; then to witness major changes in social customs and aesthetics, using clothing to break prejudice and promote gender equality.

Looking back, the voice of a fashion house can also become a slogan for women in history to overcome social barriers.

Betty Catroux donated 180 haute couture and 138 ready-to-wear pieces, as well as a large number of shoes, hats and handbags, to the Musée Yves Saint Laurent after the death of her best friend. “Through her, he gave his life; thanks to him, she became who she is,” says current art director Anthony Vaccarello.

The difference is that Loulou has worked diligently as the right and left hand of Mr. Yves Saint Laurent for 30 years, while Betty Catroux is just hanging around with them. She said that they didn't work together was the secret to a long-lasting friendship, and she was clearly a lazy person who couldn't even lift a finger.

Loulou is like a template for a perfect woman. As the first leading woman to enter the workplace, she is engaged in a glamorous industry, but her favorite thing is to go to the house in the Normandy countryside to take care of her garden; and Betty describes herself as a frivolous , but according to the descriptions of people around her, in addition to drinking, she is actually very self-disciplined, dancing jazz five times a week, persisting for decades, and educating a pair of children in a decent and stable manner. The red and white roses are so different, but in their own way they inspire the creation of Mr. Yves Saint Laurent. They were among the few close relatives who accompanied Mr. Yves Saint Laurent until his death in 2008.

SAINT LAURENT has done a retrospective for Betty Catroux in 2020 and 2021, I am very much looking forward to the future of SAINT LAURENT to do a Loulou de la Falaise fashion show, including her wonderful accessories, it will be completely A style in opposition to Betty Catroux. Also looking forward to the end of the pandemic, we can fly straight to the Musée Yves Saint Laurent in Paris to see it all.

View more about Yves Saint Laurent reviews

Extended Reading
  • Cheyenne 2022-04-20 09:02:59

    If you are unfamiliar with fashion or unfamiliar with French political history, you can be confused and stared at it. The second half of the film is like diarrhea - my stomach is empty, but I haven't taken out any dry goods. It's a cycle of taking drugs, making clothes, quarreling with her boyfriend and making up again. This biography is so funny! That is to say, the actors are good-looking, and Pierre Niney's acting skills are award-winning.

  • Kiarra 2022-04-22 07:02:00

    It turned out that what I was looking forward to was "Saint Laurent Biography" (shame... Anyway, this shows that YSL's beauty is so big~ This casting is great, although the story doesn't feel particularly eye-catching, the atmosphere and visual The effects, music, etc. are all amazing! Worth a look. (And looking forward to the latest "Saint Laurent Biography", lol~

Yves Saint Laurent quotes

  • Yves Saint Laurent: I don't fear critics.