I'm a control freak, and I need a lot of structure even in my day-to-day life. In mountain climbing, I have to feel that I have everything under control, and I believe it is this attitude that has kept me alive to this day. Fortunately, I am timid, otherwise my ambitions would have destroyed me long ago.
I need a clear goal.
I'm not the type of person who does rock climbing and then runs again. I often need a goal, and this goal is the basis of my efficient training.
Climbing an 8,000-meter peak, or climbing a 5.13-difficulty route unprotected, or free climbing El Cap (in Yosemite National Park, USA, the highest vertical drop exceeds 3,000 feet), these are the differences of.
You can't be at your best every time you climb, it's a fact that has to be accepted. So if I'm going to free climb a route on El Capitan, I'm not going to run a marathon, I'm going to spend my time climbing because running takes away the time and energy I would otherwise use for climbing training.
Likewise, cardio training like running works for other specific goals. I need a different type of stamina on the Himalayan and Eiger North, the details make the important difference and the training starts to get interesting.
I have summed up my own life experience and know exactly how to achieve the training level.
Training requires periodic changes, and it is impossible to maintain a high level throughout the year, which is the biggest problem many climbers face. They want to be at their best all the time, so they feel the pressure. Trying to be at your peak all the time creates bottlenecks that may result in no improvement in training performance unless you break this stagnant period.
With proper training, periods of stagnation can be periodically broken through to reach a peak. What you need to do is time your peak at the right time, and that requires planning, and I often train according to that plan.
Climbing is sustainable for me, I've always wanted to set the speed record for Eiger North, and by optimizing my training for this route, I've done it. The next step was to try unknown routes, which I achieved on the North Face of the Gross Chora and the Matterhorn.
These experiences have allowed me to tap into my new potential, let me know that I can climb a 1000-meter (3,281-foot) rock face in two and a half hours without knowing the route, and also opened up my trip to the Himalayas a new dimension.
On the Shishapang horse, I had a good day and a half of good weather. The south face is 2,000 meters (6,561 feet) high, and a one-and-a-half-day window was exactly what I needed to climb such a wall. The route I climbed was very challenging, full of cliffs and rocky passages, and after ten and a half hours, I was at the top.
The weather forecast for two days is generally very accurate, which means that overall, on these routes, I have a sufficient margin of safety derived from my fitness. I am able to calculate and predict with precision, so I never take risks and have no legends.
The most important thing is that you have to come back safely - whether or not you reach the top. You have to be honest with yourself because no one really cares about you and everything you do is for yourself. Each person must decide for himself how much risk he is willing to take, risk is unforeseeable and often varies from person to person.
You must know that it is impossible to break your own record indefinitely: higher, faster, better. Eventually you will reach a peak and then slide down. I believe it's important: no matter what level you're at, don't lose your passion for enjoying the outdoors and challenging yourself.
Original link: http://patagoniabooks.uberflip.com/i/214974-new-alpinism-chs-1-through-7/31?
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