I am also an amateur surfer myself, and I have experienced some dangers while surfing. When watching a movie, the protagonist’s every step of the experience really feels the same. When the white waves hit one by one, you can’t cope with it. Into the big waves, like a drum washing machine... and the fatal danger brought by the ocean, after experiencing an offshore stream escape, I basically gave up the idea of continuing to advance, and the protagonist suffered a broken arm. Unbearable suffering, but still able to muster the courage to challenge yourself again, is really the bravery that ordinary people can't have, only through experience can you understand how difficult it is... She is really an amazing person!
In addition, I want to say that many people feel that the part of the movie where the protagonist recovers quickly and goes back to the sea to surf is not handled well, that the rhythm is too fast to perform well, and the part of the protagonist’s inner struggle. I admit that maybe there are some shortcomings in this area, but surfing has such a charm. When you really fall in love, it will fill your heart with the love of life, and you will accept your bronzed complexion. The scars on the reef and the bruises on the body, because it’s really worth it
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