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Laurie 2022-03-14 14:12:31
Facing the Impossible Courage and Moving
Jay is famous not for conquering the waves but for his courage to challenge the impossible. The
waves are always far away from us. In fact, I never knew what was so scary about waves.
But with my little brain capacity and Imagination imagines the life swallowed by the huge waves and the destroyed... -
Brennan 2022-02-07 15:01:03
like chasing dreams
Surf Hero is as good looking as Deadly Express. The latter is an adaptation of a true story. After 12 weeks of study with frosty, I was afraid of the front, so I went to surf that wave. If I don't like it, I won't go, so why? When I was 8 years old, I liked to go to the beach to measure the tide....

Brian Sampson
Extended Reading
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Frosty Hesson: We all come from the sea, but we are not all of the sea. Those of us who are, we children of the tides, must return to it again and again, until the day we don't come back leaving behind only that which was touched along the way.
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Frosty Hesson: As for the rest, all I will say is... the ones who push the limits, discover the limits sometimes push back.