Look at the cruel history of European corsets from [宠儿]

Darien 2021-11-25 08:01:27

Jia Pingwa wrote about a woman in "Abandoned City", saying that her pair " hot tits jumped out like white rabbits ", and told the man Zhou Min to see him, and a fierce son pierced it, "with his nipples." Suck it up."

This sentence "jump like a white rabbit", to be honest, I have never seen it. Even if there is Gong Li from [满城全带金甲], half of his chest is bulged out, but it looks like steamed buns sprinkled with a dozen catties of yeast. It is white, but it can’t be said to have escaped. , But lifeless.

Until I watched [Favorite] .

In the early 18th century, the Queen of England and her two favored girls were deeply involved in power struggles and fell in love with each other and killed each other. Not long after the opening, the two favored girls appeared one after the other, their chests more than jumping off like white rabbits, they were like little pony horses, and they were about to kick into people's mouths.

©️[Favorite] Starring Rachel Weisz put on a corset, she won the 91st Oscar nomination for Best Supporting Actress for this role

The designer is Sandy Powell, who made clothes for [Cinderella] and [Carol] earlier, and now he is responsible for the costume design of [happy full of people 2] and [宠儿]. Especially the latter, it is extremely accurate to restore the corset that all European women loved and hated hundreds of years ago.

The disadvantage is that it is too precise.

On the set, Emma Stone couldn't even sit down, and " smell the menthol every time before starting work, otherwise he couldn't breathe ." After shooting for a month, I found that my internal organs were forced to shift. "The doctor said it was the lower half of the stomach. This gave me more sympathy for the women of that era."

©️[Bellow] is the first drama Emma Stone has received in her career that requires a corset to appear. Because of this, her internal organs have shifted and it is difficult to even bend over. Lying reclining on the sofa in a very strange position

"That era", which era?

It is said that in Spain in the 16th century, the literati enthusiastically praised the beauty of women's curves, especially the waist, and it is best to be thin enough for men to cross their arms.

The aristocratic women were extremely glamorous, and moved to hear the wind, and invented a carcass called " Basque Enu ". The canvas texture, inverted triangle shape, tight-fitting, can make the breasts rise high, and at the same time tightly bind the waist to form a kind of The beauty of breasts, thin waist and fat buttocks.

Upon seeing this scene, the poet Ariosto wrote a long poem "Roland in Love", sighing that " the ups and downs of breasts are like waves blowing in a breeze ."

©️Basque Inu Corset, the picture is taken from Ms. Godey's book, published in January 1857

Soon after it was introduced to France, Catherine de' Medici, the princess of Henry II, became the first user.

In the process of wearing it, she felt her breasts being pulled up, her waist and abdomen being tightened, and her straight, dull body suddenly became curved, and she instantly loved it and regarded it as an indispensable treasure in life.

A ban was also issued in 1550, prohibiting women from widening waists and promoting corsets, thinking that " the waist of a perfect woman is 40 cm (about 1.2 feet) . As long as you can have this figure, why can't you bear it? "

After that, I was sent to create a metallic bra with four iron plates on the front, back, left, and right. The plates were connected by hinges, and the hinges were tightened, so that the waist and abdomen can be received as low as 33 cm.

©️The picture on the left is Princess Catherine de Medici, who has loved corsets all her life and even used them as her own home decoration. The picture on the right is her metal bra, which is very stiff. Later, Cromwell, the leader of the British Round Head Party, made a bulletproof vest accordingly.

But this kind of material is very easy to scratch the body, so in 1577 a bra called " Kor Pekai " appeared , the material is linen, and the inside is lined. And in order to maintain the inverted triangle contour and shape the effect of breast plumping and thin waist, the front and back sides are also added with support bones——

A support frame made of long, flat wooden strips, ivory, or whale baleen, which reshapes the female body like feet.

The most common is whale baleen , a huge horny sheet formed by the epidermis that grows in the mouth of a whale. It is flexible and not easy to break. It is embedded in the bra and sealed with a lace ribbon to make the waist longer and the breast plump and straight.

In the 17th century, whale bones were added, and more than one. They were on the front, back, left, and right. They were coated with wax oil and soap to make it easy to insert into the body. Some were used to compress the shoulder blades, and some were used to straighten the back. .

More whale baleen is embedded in the chest, and the sutures radiate upward from the waist. The structure is more exquisite than before, and it is not easy to deform due to large movements.

Of course, she was even more breathless, and her tits were violent, but she was regarded as an unusually sexy beauty. If you really can't stand it, open your neckline wider, or use a fan to fan the wind and chat to masturbate.

Many people do this in the movie [Queen of Peerless Pornstars].

©️[Extremely Beautiful Queen]

It is common for poor breathing to faint, so men carry olfactory salts with them in order to wake up women who have passed out. Even the police carried them in case of emergency. They believe that women are inherently weak, and they should faint when they see something inappropriate. This is the first-class woman.

How to say it, like Emma Stone smelling menthol.

[Pirates of the Caribbean] It happened during this period. The heroine was almost choked by the corset. She was told that this is the most popular style in London. She gritted her teeth with hatred, "Then London women must not breathe."

©️[Pirates of the Caribbean]

In the 18th century, the inverted triangle became a conical contour, the main purpose of which was to support breast milk and stretch the shoulders. The number and direction of the embedded whale baleen has also been greatly improved. You have to bend it according to the body curve first, and then sew it into the bra. The eyelets and sutures are arranged in a staggered spiral shape and tightened on the chest.

To this end, the Netherlands established a whaling company.

The whales did not think that one day, women without the power to bind chickens would become their natural enemies.

Zhang Ailing also wrote in "Comic Sets", "Western women's waists are tied hard with whale bones, thin though thin, like iron strikes."

But there are still people rushing to it, although it makes it extremely difficult for people to bend over or bend over. After all, the ability to move the meat to the place where it should go, wear it with a chest, waist and waist, and pull the shoulders back to ensure that the spine is straight and straight.

The material has also changed from linen to silk, which is barely comfortable.

©️18th century corset

©️The corset of the mid-18th century

The most typical example is "Famous Shu" . Looking around, white rabbits jump out of the street. In particular, the prostitute played by Jessica Findley is tightly bound by the bra, which means to bind, and is a symbol of sexual attraction.

©️The corset in "Famous Shu", you can see the blue veins violently

But because there are no buttonholes and the tether is behind the back, no matter what kind of woman, she needs to rely on the strength of others to take it off and put it on.

©️Husband is wearing a corset for his wife

This process is extremely painful, because I want to become slender enough, so I can't talk about it, and sometimes even suffocate on the spot.

There are such shots in many movies, such as [Fire Tree Silver Flower], Judy Garland was strangled to speak; [One Touch of Venus], Ava Gardner tightened his back Eyes widened in an instant;

©️[Fire Tree Silver Flower]

©️[One Touch of Venus]

And [Titanic] , the heroine Ruth played by Kate Winslet, not only suffered the most terrible shipwreck in modern history, but also suffered daily physical "criminal law."

In the scene when her mother helped her put on her bra, she pulled the rope and pulled tightly without expression, and she could feel Ruth's pain across the screen.

©️[Titanic]

By the 19th century, the development of corsets could be described as ups and downs.

Because Napoleon admired ancient Roman culture very much, he naturally liked straight women's clothing instead of curves. As the saying goes, "The king of Chu has a thin waist, and many starve to death in the palace ." Women are temporarily free from the shackles of corsets.

The writer Jane Austen was very happy, she said, "Now the bra is not squeezed at all, it seems that it really doesn't fit the way it used to be."

But soon I found myself happy too early.

I don’t know where I’ve come to say that tuberculosis is a romantic disease. After suffering from it, not only the body is thin and the veins are visible, but it also makes the skin appear a kind of "Byronian paleness."

And basically in the afternoon, a layer of blush will appear on the cheeks, which is the " rose cheek " that was highly sought after in the literature at that time .

In addition, after a long illness, weak and weak, her speech and demeanor appeared to be gentle and elegant, and she also showed a melancholy temperament, just like Lin Daiyu, thus forming a kind of atmosphere.

It was also discovered that people who wear corsets all year round are more likely to be infected with tuberculosis, so they rushed to wear them, which in turn promoted the popularity of corsets.

©️The corset of the mid-19th century

The Victorian era developed to its heyday. The bra was extended below the waist. It not only contained whale bones, but also incorporated steel bones. With the addition of iron buttonholes, it was tied tighter than the previous tether, which could burst the breasts and die. Restricted waist and abdomen, known as " Wasp Waist ".

©️The corset of the 19th century replaced the previous rope with iron hooks

©️The woman with a wasp waist in the 19th century

©️At the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, a woman with a wasp waist

It was during this period that a German anatomist named Som Mering was dissecting a woman’s chest and abdomen and found that due to long-term wear of a corset, it was severely folded inward from the fifth rib and became Acute angle and eventually squeeze into the edge of the breastbone.

The breathing expansion function and blood circulation of the lung lobes are also blocked, and the liver, stomach, kidneys, and intestines are forced to move down . If things go on like this, various complications will inevitably occur, such as headaches, stomach cramps, amenorrhea, metritis, and habitual abortion. It is a blessing to be able to live past 40.

©️The effect of corsets on the human body, the picture comes from the Valencia Museum of Ethnology

However, some studies have shown that corsets are not fatal, nor so dangerous. At most, they are indigestion, which squeezes the living space of the fetus.

A Dutch hospital found 500 women of childbearing age to conduct a survey and found that people with a waist-to-hip ratio greater than 0.8 have a pregnancy rate of less than twice that of 0.8, proving that corsets can indeed reduce women's chances of pregnancy.

©️The changes of internal organs after putting on a corset

Immediately afterwards, the medical and religious ethics circles raised objections to the corset. Moreover, during the American Civil War, women who participated in the anti-slavery movement gave speeches everywhere, demanding to free themselves and move around freely.

Even the male group no longer supports it, thinking that women wearing such bras are unhealthy. French thinker Rousseau also said, "It is not a pleasing thing to see a woman tied in two like a wasp. "

But how to say it, it is strange that women did not give up wearing this dress because of this, but became worse.

For example, [Gone with the Wind] , Scarlett just given birth to a third child, I could not wait to restore their former stature. The servant helped her fasten the corset, she measured it, and immediately shouted: " 20 inches (about 50 cm)! That's the waist of a pregnant woman! It's as thick as my aunt! "

The servant had to increase the strength of the drawstring, and Scarlett endured the pain and said, " Try 18 inches, or you won't be able to wear a skirt. "

But the purpose of this is nothing more than to put on a fancy dress and walk around in front of Clark Gable and listen to him praise himself.

©️During the filming of [Gone with the Wind], Vivien Leigh was asked by the director to wear a corset and draw the outline of her chest. Vivien Leigh was very angry about this, but had to grit his teeth for the role

Who is controlling the measurements of women?

Is it a male? But men did not blindly force women to wear corsets, and even began to oppose it in the 19th century. On the contrary, women are willing and willing to "punish themselves" for themselves.

In other words, for a long time, women who have been in the position of being consumed and exploited have become accustomed to measuring their own value with the eyes of men, relying on the affirmation of men to exist. Even one day, when a man says "you don't have to be like this", a woman will not adapt.

So you see, people who force women to marry and have children are often women. People who dislike female celebrities who are older and more wrinkled are also female audiences. Feeling that the word "women" sounds old and ugly, so I changed "Women's Day" to "Goddess' Day" and the self-objectification is still female.

They are obsessed with the sexual attraction brought by corsets, and they tirelessly cater to men's tastes and compete for favor with the standards set by men. If you don’t wear them, you don’t marry, you don’t have children, they will demean you, reject you, and do their best to indulge in malice.

©️[爱儿]The woman in a corset

It’s like today’s Women’s Rights Day has become a shopping festival.

Finally, women began to use sex to discriminate against themselves without knowing it. Finally, women became accomplices of the patriarchal system. Just like the end of the 19th century, the whole world is calling for corsets to be burned, and only women are unwilling.

It turns out that the most terrifying thing in this world is never the inequality between men and women, but that women are persecuting women.

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Author/six aunts

This article was first published on the WeChat public account [Pocier]

The pictures in this article are from the Internet

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